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Thread: Uncoated ESEEs

  1. #1
    Jeff Randall's Avatar
    Jeff Randall is offline Co-Owner Randall's Adventure & Training / ESEE Knives
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    Uncoated ESEEs

    Due to constant requests, we are experimenting with releasing uncoated ESEE-3 and 4's. No guarantee on this since we are in the testing stages of tumbling to see how these will work out. Just know that if we do this, these are 1095 carbon steel just like the orginal Old Timer pocket knives were and THEY WILL RUST if not cared for constantly or a patina is applied. Not sure when this will happen but we're doing some tests now.

    ESEE Knives

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  2. #2
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    Put me down for 2 uncoated 3s and 1 uncoated 4! I would definately buy!
    "Being deeply loved by someone gives you strength, while loving someone deeply gives you courage" - Lao Tzu

    ---Master Knife Sharpener---

  3. #3
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    Sounds great to me. Hopefully they'll be available before I have to retire my current 3.
    How about a polished edge? makes it more resistant to corrosion in my experience.

  4. #4
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    sounds great.

    i would buy a uncoated 3 in a heartbeat
    RP#1066
    Junglas #1875 | Esee4 #5015 | Izula #13948 | Candiru #648 | gb 6 #11 | gb izula2 #11 |

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    I'm sure I'd get at least one.

  6. #6
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    I'd definitely buy an uncoated 4. And prolly a 3 also. Any chance of getting it etched with a kayak and "Paddle like a girl"?
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  7. #7
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    Would these be available with a modified pommel and Canvas Micarta handles?...
    Wally

  8. #8
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    Coated under handle and uncoated blade?
    RPr#3540

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  9. #9
    Jeff Randall's Avatar
    Jeff Randall is offline Co-Owner Randall's Adventure & Training / ESEE Knives
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    uncoated all the way

    ESEE Knives

    Randall's Adventure & Training

    ----Long live Warren Zevon

  10. #10
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    will they be stonewashed or something similar?
    RP#1066
    Junglas #1875 | Esee4 #5015 | Izula #13948 | Candiru #648 | gb 6 #11 | gb izula2 #11 |

  11. #11
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    I'd be in for at least one of each. I strip all of my blades, anyway, and with proper care they have no rust trouble. Even living less than 1/2 mile from Lake Michigan with all the humidity, it doesn't take much to keep them in good shape.

  12. #12
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    Awesome! One thing I might suggest is just clear-coating the region under the scales. Anyone can do that themselves with a can o' clear lacquer but you risk idiots mangling their handle hardware in a DIY circumstance.

    Either way, that's awesome!

    RP# 6 "To live at all is miracle enough" ~Mervyn Peake

  13. #13
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    Great news..... just thining outloud but I wonder if it might be easier/faster to hit them with a sandblaster. Entrek sandblasts his knives and they come out pretty uniform in finish. This is going to be awesome.


    Eli

  14. #14
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    Entrek makes stainless blades. For 1095 my choice would be a polished edge. The rougher the surface, the faster it will rust to my experience.

  15. #15
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    Awesome idea! Out of all of my ESEE's only 2 of the 3 izula2s are uncoated.

    When I remove the powder coat I leave it on under the scales to prevent any moisture that gets under there from doing to much work on the tang.

    A few other people suggested this also, it is something to consider. I think it will greatly improve the longevity of the blade. I brought this up in a few other threads talking about stripping ESEE's. I only strip the blade.

    Any thoughts on what kind of finish you will have on them? High polish maybe? I like the high polish. In my experience the more polished it is the less likely rust is able to really adhere to the steel, and when it does it seems to be easily wiped off because it has no micro pores, or little crevices to grip into.

    It will be interesting to see a prototype, because any one who has stripped an ESEE before , ether with paint stripper or with sand paper knows that the blades are slightly textured beneath the powder coat to get it to adhere well. I usually wind up sanding that down smooth, but on one of my knives I left that on because it makes a cool design.

    Jeff would you mind talking a bit about how you guys coat them to begin with? I notice that if you use paint stripper on the powder coat, first off comes the powder coat, then you are left with a greyish rough feeling surface. What is this layer? Is that just the oxidized, texturized layer that is applied so the powder coat will stick? It can then be sanded to reveal nice bright 1095.

    Stripping them is also a great Idea for food prep. the texture of the powder coat leaves allot of little peaks and valley for germs to get into, so you really need to wash em well. Though I cant say I have ever had any problems with this. This is just something I heard some one else talking about, I cant remember who though.

    Awesome idea Jeff.
    -DontTreadOnME201 (RAT PACK#1053, EMT, outdoorsman, NTA & NRA Member, and trapper)

    "Relish the challenge of overcoming difficulties that would crush ordinary men...learn to suffer." - Mark Twight

 

 

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